Ireland Part 2 - From Old Stones to New Friends - Slawn-cha!

Five days in Ireland was not enough to soak in this country's essential spirit but our Irish friends, Graham and Louisa, gave us a condensed experience of that spirit. With them, we saw the old and the new - including a Neolithic archeological site and a modern whiskey distillery.

We saw the most striking example of ancient Ireland as we began our day together at the Newgrange complex. This site, dating back to neolithic times, is a site that historians believe has sacred meanings. We did a tour of Dowth, which is one of passage tombs on the Newgrange site.

Yes, this is Brú na Bóinne, meaning Bend of the Boyne, and it is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Caption Brú na Bóinne and its icon on a t-shirt sold at Newgrange

The tri-spiral is an iconic symbol in Ireland. It was engraved in stone at Newgrange, which was built in 3200 BCE, and the icon was later often used to mark sacred sites. Its original meaning is not clear. The three elements - earth, air, and water? The three goddesses - maiden, mother, and crone? The three realms of existence - birth, life, death? Historians believe these are the likely options.


As elsewhere on the Newgrange site, the grass-covered mounds are supported by large stones with mysterious markings.

In addition to being used as tombs, there are a few openings into Knowth, Dowth, and Newgrange that let shafts of sunlight into normally-dark chambers on certain equinox dates.


No one knew this archeological treasure was here, although there were local legends about ancient graves. Once the site was recognized by archeologists, a massive restoration brought it back - as much as was possible because the details and intent of the builders was unknown.

If you're a history buff (thinking of you, DK), you might want to check this article by Jane Smiley. She covered much of the same ground we did in her article, but goes into more historic detail.

Jane Smiley article:

https://www.nytimes.com/2016/12/20/travel/ireland-newgrange-ancient-passage-tombs-mounds.html?unlocked_article_code=1.Rk4.YLq3.frV58PPM8aWn&smid=url-share

Before the renovation, people had built homes and farms on top of the site. Our friend, Louisa, grew up here and she and her friends used to play amongst the ruins. Louisa's memories tied together the old and new of this ancient site for us in a special way.

We got back to the present with a tour of a local distillery. Slane Distilleries uses traditional materials and methods to make their whiskey.

The tour finished at the tasting table. Slawn- cha!

We ended the day at Graham and Louisa's favorite pub: Clarke's Bar. Clarke is my mother's family name; we wondered, are the owners (original or present) relatives? That will have to wait for the next trip!

It was a traditional Irish pub with a mix of patrons

And complete with traditional Irish music.



And there was Guinness and more slawn-cha.

On my last day, I traipsed through fog and wet grass up the Hill of Slane in very Irish weather. A large herd of somber cows looked on as I climbed up to the remains of the once-bustling religious complex here.

This is another special place near Rossnaree and the Boyne River. Legend has it that this is where St. Patrick lit the Pascal Fire that brought Christianity to Ireland in the second half of 5th century. His statue stands here among the ruins of what was once a majestic cathedral and a monastery with a large community of monks.

The site has new as well as many centuries-old lichen-covered gravestones, including some with the Clarke family name.

One could feel the ages in the grey, mist-filled aura. It was yet another reminder to remember those who have walked this piece of earth before us, reaching far back in time.

After that, I ended my last day in Ireland with good food and a Guinness.

It was another day of the present layered on the past in Ireland.


A special thanks to good friends well met!